Many Indian homes already have a body oil routine: coconut oil before a head bath, sesame oil for a weekend massage, almond oil for a baby’s skin. Oils feel indulgent and they’re easy to find. But they’re not all the same, and they don’t do everything people expect of them.
This guide looks at the oils most of us can buy in India, what research actually says about each one on skin, how to use them so they help instead of leaving you sticky, and where they fall short.
Short on time?
- Best-studied picks for dry body skin: virgin coconut oil and sunflower seed oil.
- Use oil on damp skin straight after a bath, and use only a few drops per area.
- For very dry skin, dermatologists say thick creams or petroleum jelly work better than oils on their own.
- Oils are not sunscreen. Use a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ on exposed skin.
- Patch test any new oil, especially if you have sensitive skin or eczema.
What body oils can and can’t do
Oils are mostly emollients: they soften the skin and slow down water loss by sitting on top of it. They don’t add water themselves, which is why they work best on skin that is still damp.
There’s an important limit. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), in its advice on dry skin in darker skin tones, notes that butters and oils tend to liquefy on the skin, so they’re less effective as moisturisers than an ointment like petroleum jelly or a thick cream. So if your shins are flaking or ashy in a Delhi winter, an oil alone may not be enough. Layering it with a cream is a practical fix.
Oils that are easy to find in India
The notes below draw on a 2017 review in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences, “Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils“. Much of the research it covers is small or done on animals, so treat it as promising rather than proven.
Coconut oil
The review cites a randomised trial in which virgin coconut oil was as effective and safe as mineral oil as a moisturiser for mild to moderate dry skin (xerosis), and a study in children with mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in which virgin coconut oil improved skin barrier measures. It’s affordable, it absorbs reasonably well in warm weather, and it solidifies in winter, so warm the jar in your hands first.
Use it for: legs, arms, elbows, heels. Many people find it too heavy for acne-prone areas like the back and chest, so keep it off skin that breaks out easily.
Sunflower seed oil
The same review notes that sunflower seed oil has more linoleic acid than olive oil and has been shown to preserve the skin’s outer layer and improve hydration in adults without causing redness. Look for cold-pressed sunflower oil meant for skin use. It’s lighter than coconut oil, so it suits humid cities.
Sesame oil (til ka tel)
Sesame oil is the classic massage oil in many Indian households. The review describes antioxidant compounds in sesame and small studies where sesame oil massage reduced pain after limb injuries. Evidence for it as a daily body moisturiser is thinner, but it’s a pleasant, warming massage oil before a bath.
Almond oil
Almond oil is described in the review as an emollient. Studies on stretch marks are mixed: one small, nonrandomised study found massage with bitter almond oil reduced the visibility of stretch marks in pregnancy, but other almond oil products have not shown the same benefit. Use it because it feels good, not because it will erase marks.
Jojoba oil
Technically a liquid wax, jojoba is common in imported and Indian skincare. The review notes its high wax-ester content and its use in cosmetics, including moisturisers. It’s a light option if heavier oils feel greasy.
A note on olive oil
Olive oil is often recommended in home remedies, but the review points out that topically applied olive oil has been shown to harm the skin’s barrier, increasing water loss in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis. If you have eczema-prone skin, it’s one to skip.
Mustard oil and essential oils
Mustard oil is widely used for massage in North and East India, but it can feel hot and irritating on sensitive skin. Pure essential oils (tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus) are too strong to put straight on skin; if you use them at all, they need heavy dilution in a carrier oil. When in doubt, choose a plain, fragrance-free oil.
How to use body oil properly
- Keep showers short and warm, not hot. The AAD’s dry-skin tips suggest five to ten minutes in warm water.
- Pat, don’t rub. Leave the skin slightly damp.
- Apply oil within a few minutes. A few drops per limb, pressed in with your palms.
- On very dry patches, follow with a cream or a thin layer of petroleum jelly to seal it in.
- Give it time to sink in before putting on silk or light-coloured clothes. Oil marks on a chiffon dupatta are hard to shift.
Oil is not sun protection
You’ll see claims online that coconut or sesame oil “has SPF”. Lab studies have looked at UV effects of some oils, but no kitchen oil is tested or labelled to protect you like sunscreen. The AAD recommends a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, reapplied every two hours outdoors. Use your oil at night or after you’re done with the sun, and sunscreen during the day. Our guide to why sunscreen is the most important skincare step covers how much to use.
Patch test first
“Natural” doesn’t mean gentle for everyone. Nut, seed and fragrance allergies are real. The AAD suggests testing a new product on a small spot, such as the inside of the arm or the bend of the elbow, twice daily for seven to ten days. Stop if you notice redness, itching or swelling, and see a dermatologist if a rash doesn’t settle. If you have a nut allergy, avoid nut oils on skin unless your doctor says otherwise.
A glow for summer nights
For a wedding or a beach evening, a light layer of oil on collarbones and shoulders gives a healthy sheen in photos. Keep it off your face if you’re wearing makeup, and let your eyes carry the shimmer instead: a pat of shimmer eyeshadow in a warm gold or peach on the lids picks up the same glow. For more on humid, beachy evenings, see our beach-proof makeup guide. Travelling? Decant a little oil into a leak-proof mini bottle; our travel makeup bag guide has more packing tips.
FAQ
Which natural oil is best for dry body skin?
Virgin coconut oil and sunflower seed oil have the most supporting research for dry skin. For very dry skin, dermatologists suggest pairing oil with a thick cream or petroleum jelly, since oils on their own are less effective moisturisers.
Should I apply body oil on wet or dry skin?
On slightly damp skin, straight after a bath. The oil helps hold in the water that’s already on your skin.
Can coconut oil replace sunscreen?
No. Kitchen oils are not tested or labelled for sun protection. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher on exposed skin.
Is olive oil good for the body?
It’s not the best choice if you have eczema-prone skin. Research has shown topical olive oil can weaken the skin barrier and increase water loss. Sunflower seed oil is a better-studied alternative.
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